Food critic Alison Cook has maintained for years that “when in doubt, open an Italian restaurant” is a way to make bank in Houston. But a first glance at the rigorously tight menu at Concura tells you this is not your usual Houston Italian restaurant.
tells you this is not your usual Houston Italian restaurant. Cod liver foie gras, fish ragu over house-made chitarini, “tomato bread bowl”… what is going on here in the city of endless carbonaras, pizzas and filled ravioli?
It’s a valiant effort that dazzles when it succeeds and confounds when it doesn’t. Oh, sure, a few sure things like a green salad with citrus and burrata dot the bill of fare ; or the sea bass crudo that is a must at every turn these days .But it’s the thrilling little shocks that make this seven-month-old restaurant so welcome. A roulade of rabbit arrives filled with porchetta in a deeply savory, darkly burnished demiglace.
Even more unexpected, but not in a good way, was the harsh, briny iodine flavor of the fish ragu that comes with exquisitely thin, squared off chitarrini. The house-made noodles are cut as if by the strings of a guitar, or chitarrra; and they came cooked to a fine bounce the night I sampled them. I’d love to try them with a sauce that doesn’t taste like a mouthful seawater.
The most surprising sleight of hand to me was a version of eggplant parmigiana that looked, as a dining companion put it, like three little “pizza rolls” that had been too aggressively browned. But their mahogany crusts turned out to be made with eggplant skins that Cupoone had dehydrated and pulverized; and their insides, filled with salted ricotta, had the requisite softened eggplant squish. They worked.
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