'As the summer winds down, and the pandemic wears on, I find myself in Brooklyn, aching to cross a couple of rivers to eat some socially-distanced dogs at an open-air roadside stand'
Rippers from Hiram’s Roadstand in Fort Lee. Photo: Melissa Hom Like any meat-eating American, I’ve loved hot dogs almost since birth. And, like most Americans, I grew up loving them without thinking too hard about what made certain dogs better than others. Boiled, grilled, griddled — whatever. In Wisconsin, where I lived, a debate over ketchup might last 30 seconds before everyone moved on.
Hot Dog Johnny’s, founded in 1944, is in the absolute middle of nowhere. It is perched picturesquely between US-46 and the Pequest River in the town of Buttzville. The menu is focused: Johnny’s serves hot dogs and French fries. For refreshment, there are mugs of birch beer and, bizarrely, buttermilk. I was delighted by the place overall — New Jersey hot-dog stands generally possess ample movie-ready charm — and impressed with the actual hot dogs.
The fabled Italian hot dog from Jimmy Buff’s. Photo: Melissa Hom By the time I got to Tommy’s Italian Sausage & Hot Dogs — a gorgeous, old, boardwalk-style corner storefront in Elizabeth that does only window service — I knew what to expect. At Tommy’s, you can get one, two, or three all-beef dogs tucked inside the pizza bread; or you can get a dog-and-sausage combo. The fried potatoes are so popular they are served separately as “potatoes in a cup.
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