In an Italian region famous for its stunning landscapes, picture-perfect villages, and buzzing economy, one can find a hidden treasure.
Opened in 2002, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Trento and Rovereto is an exuberant sunburst of a building designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta. I’m not a fan of Botta, whose buildings always seem to aspire towards the aesthetics of a Bond villain lair , but credit where credit’s due, he’s actually pulled it out of the bag here.
It comprises works from the mid-19th century to the present day, beginning with Francesco Hayez and his salacious masterpiece followed by a selection of works from the laidback Italian impressionist group, the Macchiaioli. Moving into the 20th century, the gallery showcases the art of the Italian divisionists . This includes landmark works by Gino Severini, Umberto Boccioni and Giacomo Balla, all of whom transitioned into fully fledged futurists after the First World War.
At its best, futurism represented a sensuous relationship with modernity, with all its volatility, thrill, and limitless possibilities. At its worst, it fetishized war, unfettered masculinity, and Mussolini, who makes a cameo appearance here in the form of Renato Bertelli’s whirring “aeroceramic” bust.
After the War, Italian art moved further into abstraction, including the famous ripped canvases of professional mischief maker Lucio Fontana. Social realism flourished in the home of the West’s most successful communist party, manifested here by Renato Guttuso’s. The influential Arte Povera emerged, which pushed the material possibilities of art. The conceptual movement is well represented, but not to my taste.
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