Pass the gomasio and the lemon wedge: Condiments are the part of a meal that diners can control, and they are multiplying beyond the same old grind
On my mother-in-law’s table there are always at least two sets of salt and pepper, in old-fashioned mills, arranged at thoughtful intervals so that everyone can reach them. What a new guest to her table may not realize is that these little grinders come with an unspoken rule. Only take the pepper, never the salt.
I discovered this one evening when I salted my soup and my mother-in-law reacted as if I had punched her on the nose. She is a superb cook, trained in the French tradition, and by adding salt at the table, I had implied, rudely, that her seasoning could be improved. She doesn’t feel the same about pepper, which...
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