The profound comfort of kimchi

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The profound comfort of kimchi
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A deep sense of community marks the Korean food staple's long history.

Around Pyongyang to the north, it’s the polar opposite. The cold weather slows down the fermentation process, which still must be closely monitored, and fewer spices and salted ingredients are needed. The kimchi tends to be lighter and noted for its refreshing quality. Dongchimi, a popular water-type kimchi made with daikon radishes, can be enjoyed on its own, but its cold and briny broth is often used for another famous North Korean dish, naengmyeon .

In many communities and neighborhoods, kimjang is still a time to come together for the collective good. It’s almost always the women of Korean households who band together to make enough kimchi for their families and one another — more than they ever could make on their own. Ad-hoc kimchi-making enterprises spring up each November.

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