This comforting dish connects me with my Cuban roots—but it's complicated:
“It’s short for the color, you know; that’s why it’s called congrí,” my dad tells me, as he has dozens of times before.
It was 2011, and I was a freshman in college. Just a few hours earlier he’d picked me up from the local park-and-ride. I’d taken the bus home from college for the weekend, a trip that became more and more frequent as my misery at school mounted. Only a few months into the school year, I realized that getting good grades and actuallyI grew up surrounded by family and childhood friends. But at school I felt helplessly and unbearably alone.
I’m standing in the doorway of our narrow railroad kitchen while he rounds up dried black beans, rice, and the mise en place for his Cuban sofrito: onions, garlic, bell peppers, an anthill of cumin, and one large bay leaf. We separate the rocks from the beans into a colander as water runs over our hands. I was already hungry from all the talking, and acutely aware of how black beans always seem to take centuries to soften from scratch.
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