Photographed in Japan, Tomo Koizumi’s new collection continues to blend aspects of traditional Japanese culture with an eccentric exuberance. See every look from the spring 2021 collection:
Let’s face it, digital fashion week is a sort of stunted shorthand for the immersive and passionate experience of experiencing fashion in the flesh.
When Tomo announced that he would be producing a lookbook only this season, I felt, I admit, a sharp pang of sadness. If there was anything worth donning a mask and leaving my apartment for, it’s Koizumi’s joyous confections. But the good news is he can create a lookbook that is just as mind-bogglingly fun.
Photographed in Japan, Koizumi’s new collection continues to blend aspects of traditional Japanese culture with an eccentric exuberance. Upon collaborating with a bridal company, he found inspiration in wedding traditions, crafting white gowns with explosions of tulle around their busts, hems, even the entire dress.
The second section of his spring 2021 collection is a continuation of the rainbow-hued party clothes that originally made Koizumi famous in Japan. Photographed at night, this series of taffeta bodysuits, crop tops, and minis are made with a new ruffling technique, so instead of classic zig-zags, the fabric reads more dimensional, like a flower or a starburst. These, too, feel expressly wearable, like miniature iterations of his oversized jumpsuits and popular egg-shaped capes.
While I—and I’m sure many other fashion lovers would love to see these over-the-top garments live in person, the freedom to produce on his own scale and show at his own pace is only fueling Koizumi’s creativity. “I’m really happy with it—and no stress!” he said with a laugh. “I just keep doing my own thing, I like my designs, and I’m not pushed to do different [things].” Independence has paid off. He has a number of exciting new projects in the future, including a capsule for Emilio Pucci.
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