Is sweet potato casserole with a fluffy marshmallow layer a little over the top? Absolutely. But since when has this meal been about restraint?
Editor’s note: Thanksgiving traces its origins to an uneasy, temporary alliance between 17th-century English settlers and members of the Wampanoag Confederacy. This year, Eater is choosing to acknowledge that history in our coverage of the holiday.
I don’t mind relinquishing control of the Thanksgiving menu. I’m happy not to make the stuffing. My gravy is usually not that special, so it’s a relief that my grandmother makes it . One family friend brings green beans, and another brings roasted Brussels sprouts. I love the way most of the meal just sort of appears while I anxiously watch the turkey cook and have my first 3:30 p.m. cocktail.
But you know what does bother me? When the sweet potato casserole shows up without a single marshmallow, and whoever brought it spouts off some speech about how “sweet potatoes are already sweet enough!” Unfortunately, they — and essentially all of my colleagues, who emphatically disagree with this article’s premise — are wrong. In the past, I’ve done a littlesmile as I park the lacking casserole with the rest of the dishes. In my heart though, it’s nothing but sadness and disappointment.
Even as I write this, my coworkers are yelling at me over Slack: “No, Elazar, you gotta make the crumble with brown sugar and nuts! No Marshmallows! You have terrible taste!” Sure, it’s undeniably true that a pecan crumble is delicious, and contributes more textural variety than a cloud of toasted marshmallow. But to me, sweet potato casserole is not about a wild array of texture, or some refined balance of flavors. It’s a one-tone dish, in the best way possible.
So, is sweet potato casserole with a fluffy marshmallow layer a little over the top? Absolutely.
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